When I needed to be in Queenstown for work towards the end of the summer, we decided to take advantage of the timing to plan a few days of adventures. We started our trip with some tramping in the Greenstone and Caples Conservation Area near Glenorchy. We had walked part of the track before when we did the Routeburn Track, however, the full loop was the perfect length for this trip. Knowing that at least part of the track was relatively easy also meant that it would be a good option as a final trip before my ankle surgery.
Despite being the end of summer, the temperatures were unseasonably cool, which actually made for quite pleasant tramping. Knowing we had a pretty easy and short day ahead, we made a leisurely start, making sure to fill up with brunch in town before starting our walk. Although known as the Greenstone Caples Track, we decided to walk up the Caples Valley, essentially doing the track in reverse as it aligned better with the weather and meant that we would walk up the valley we had previously walked down.
We followed the Caples River Flats for most of the first day, despite being surrounded by conservation area, the valley floor is still used for farming. Although there has been farming in the valley since 1880, it still felt strange to see cows as we walked through the valley. Quite suddenly the valley narrows and we knew from our previous visit that we were approaching the hut. After crossing a narrow bridge over a small gorge cut by the Caples River we arrived at the hut.
The hut was located on the river flats and had great views up towards the head of the Caples Valley where we would be hiking the next day.
Our second day on the track dawned beautifully clear which worked out very well as the track would take us up and over the McKellar Saddle and into the upper Greenstone Valley today.
The climb to McKellar Saddle was as gentle as we remembered and we made steady progress through the forest. Eventually the trees started to thin and as we reached bushline we were able to look back down the upper Caples valley that we had walked up.
We reached the saddle in time for an early lunch and found the perfect rock to perch on to enjoy our picnic and the views. It was a lovely temperature in the sun and the light breeze kept the sandflies away.
From our lunch spot next to a tarn, the track continued over the saddle on a series of boardwalks. As we crossed over the saddle the wind started to get up so we picked up our pace hoping to reach the next hut before the weather started to deteriorate.
From the saddle the track dropped quickly on a series of switchbacks and so we soon found ourselves on the shore of Lake McKellar at the head of the Greenstone Valley. By this point the wind had really started to pick up and despite the track being mostly in the trees, it felt as though the weather was definitely changing as we made our way along the shore of the lake.
Eventually the hut came into sight perched on the edge of the Greenstone River. The Greenstone Valley was an early way through the mountains with iwi using this route to transport pounamu (greenstone) from the nearby Dart Valley out to the coast via the Hollyford Track. Having walked many of the valleys in this area, it was easy to see why this was the favoured route as it was much gentler than many of the others.
By early evening the rain had started to fall and we awoke to a very grey and damp day. We knew that the weather was meant to clear, but with a relatively long day of walking ahead of us, we decided to start heading down the valley. Although the worst of the rain had passed, much of the track was very wet and we passed through several swampy sections.
The advantage to walking in the rain is that you tend to go at quite a good pace, and that combined with the gentle downhill gradient, meant that we arrived at the next hut in time for a late lunch. By the time we had got our things sorted and beds made, the sun had come out and we were able to enjoy our lunch on the deck of the hut looking out at the mountains. We happily spread our clothes and shoes and socks around us in the sunshine hopeful that we might have dry things to wear the next day.
Our final day was another relatively short hike, so we made a slow start enjoying the last of the scenery. After following the Greenstone River for a while we came out into the open river flats. From here, we rejoined the Caples Valley and quickly completed the loop back to the car.