Early in November we had a long weekend, and with spring having arrived in Christchurch we thought it would be a great opportunity to get out into the mountains for a longer hike before places got crowded for the summer. We decided this would be a great chance to try out one of the many Department of Conservation huts. We drove up into the mountains after work, arriving in the small town on Saint Arnaud well after dark.
The next morning, we woke up early hoping to get up to the hut with enough time to get a bunk and have time to explore a little. Saint Arnaud is in Nelson Lakes National Park and before heading to the start of the hike we made a quick stop at Lake Rotoiti. We knew that the weather forecast for the day wasn’t great, but with the promise of much better weather ahead we decided to hike in anyway. Standing on the public dock looking up the valley we were set to hike up, we watched the clouds lift slightly to reveal quite a lot of snow on the mountains. Luckily we were easily distracted from the weather, but all of the eels swimming around the dock.
Given the rain and cloud in the valley, we decided to take the bad weather route up to the hut through the Speargrass Valley. The trail climbed gradually through the lush green forest and although it was humid it was warm and quite easy going.
We crossed numerous small creeks as we continued the gradual climb up through the valley. Sometime later we came to the Speargrass river and after following it a short distance we came to a section where the track had been washed out. Not seeing an easy way around the washout we crossed the river, despite the water being well past our knees, it wasn’t as cold as we had expected.
We continued along the river for a short distance before we saw the turn off for the Speargrass hut. A light rain had started to fall and so we decided to head over to the hut to enjoy our lunch in the dry. Sitting out on the deck we were able to look out across the valley we had climbed up, whilst occasionally getting glimpses of our route ahead whenever the clouds lifted.
From Speargrass hut the track became much rougher and zigzagged across the creek. With the heavy rain that was falling higher up the valley the water level in the creek had started rising and each crossing became a little more difficult as we negotiated the steep banks and swiftly flowing water. By this time the rain had started coming down more heavily and we made our way carefully along the slippery track, moving from one orange trail marker to the next. With very limited viability, it wasn’t until we almost arrived that we saw Lake Angelus hut in front of us. We were very grateful to be staying in the warm, dry hut and not having to try and pitch our tent. Changing into dry clothes and settling into our sleeping bags we watched the weather change across the lake.
Despite the forecast, the next day remained cloudy and wet with the rain showers occasionally turning to snow! Luckily we were warm and dry in the hut and enjoyed watching the changing weather from our vantage point. By the afternoon, the clouds had started to lift and we made our way out to explore the area.
We were surprised to see how much of the lake was still frozen, although Eric did find enough space near the outlet to try a bit of fishing.
Looking back across the lake to the hut we were able to see the ridge that we had followed on our way into the hut. Walking into the hut in the cloud and rain we had no sense of the scenery either side of the trail making the views all the more pleasant once we could finally see them!
As the clouds continued to lift we were able to look down the valley that led further into the National Park.
We were able to catch glimpses of Hinapouri tarn far below us, but with the clouds threatening rain again we decided we would skip the fishing opportunity and head back to the hut to prepare one of our camping meals.
Despite the weather not being quite what we were expecting, it was a really beautiful place and definitely somewhere would like to return to when we could really appreciate the views.
Despite the forecast, the weather did not clear up as predicted. We awoke on our final morning to a fresh dusting of snow around the lake and thick clouds; not at all what we were expecting. Knowing that the Speargrass route was going to be very wet, and that the river crossings were going to be quite tricky, we decided to take the ridge route home.
Once again we found ourselves picking our way across the rocks, our eyes constantly scanning what little of the mountain we could see ahead of us to find the next way marker. At times the snow and ice was blowing hard enough that it was stinging our faces, luckily we were pretty comfortable in our wet-weather gear and were able to laugh at the supposedly late spring hiking conditions. Eventually the clouds started to lift and we were able to catch glimpses of the valleys below us.
We continued along the ridge marvelling at the scenery that was appearing from the clouds around us.
We continued along the ridge, slowly descending back to the trail head. The landscape started to change as we crossed the rounded tops of the mountains.
Arriving at a trail junction we made the final turn onto the pinchgut track, a steep trail down the mountainside which would take us back to the carpark. Compared to many of the tracks we have hiked here in New Zealand, we were pleasantly surprised by this one as it wasn’t too steep, but maybe that was because we were going down, not up!
We made a quick stop for lunch overlooking Lake Rotoiti before the track descended into the forest. We continued down to the car, enjoying the warmth as we descended into the trees. Despite waking up to the fresh snow in the morning, and being pelted with snow and ice along the ridges, we enjoyed the hike out, and look forward to returning some day when we will be able to fully appreciate the views!